Nikon retain ownership of the Manual and all copies thereof and all related intellectual property rights, and reserves all rights not expressly granted to you under this Agreement. This Agreement constitutes the complete and exclusive agreement, oral or written, between you and Nikon.
The Manual are for customers who have purchased our products. We may be unable to respond to inquiries from individuals who have not purchased our products. Please note that the manual and the contact information therein are subject to change without notice.
The Manual is protected by Japanese copyright law and international copyright laws and treaties. Results compared to twelve other sample lenses available to me. Yes, you can, but it's painful to do for any length of time. First, the lens is heavy.
But it's also very long over 18" from front to back with hood on , so you're supporting a lot of that weight well away from you. Basically, you need to get your hands in front of the focus ring to shoot with this lens hand held. The other option is the rest-in-the-crook-of-your-elbow postion, but I don't like that with this lens as it means you're shooting with a slight twist to your body. Neither position can be held reliably for any length of time, and twisting while holding weight isn't exactly recommended.
Thus, invest in a decent monopod and consider adding the Really Right Stuff or similar monopod head. You'll be glad you did. On a tripod this lens has the common long Nikkor problem: too much tripod collar movement. If you overtighten the tripod collar adjustment, you can get most of that slop out, but I suspect that this just exacerbates the problem long term the adjustment knob gets looser and looser over time. Don't doubt me on the tripod collar issue.
Indeed, the RRS Lens Support allowed me to remove the last variable from the equation and come to a real conclusion about this lens when I first posted this review. At mm and any modest distance from the subject, even the tiniest bit of slop in your mount can impart motion into your pixels you don't want.
The acid test is this: with your rig completely locked down on your tripod, try tapping on the front of the hood relatively hard. The trick is to figure out where the motion is coming from. After you eliminate motion and ring from the legs a Gitzo GT55xx will do it, GT35xx is at the margin; ditto a RRS Versa 3 instead of a Versa 2 and the head, you'll discover that it's that pesky tripod collar that's almost certainly your problem.
If you're using it on a lighter body, you might want to invest in a longer foot. Indeed, if you hand carry the lens, you might want one of the longer feet.
Both Kirk Enterprises and Really Right Stuff make reasonable candidates that give you a little more mounting flexibility and are easier on the hands for carrying. I have to wonder if the folk that design these products actually really use them in the field.
Speaking of flaws, the Nikkor lens cap for long lenses is the traditional big cloth-with-drawstring. And it's annoying in many respects. Fortunately, my assistant found a plastic cap that fits the mm near perfectly I had to add two small bits of material on the inner lip to make sure that it fits super tight.
But boy is it a joy to use compared to Nikon's solution. Adorama also sells the Don Zeck cap for the mm, but it doesn't fit quite as well. As you might have noticed from the comments on Memory Set in the first section of this review, this function is near useless unless you always shoot at the same focal length.
The only time I've found it useful is when I know I'm always shooting at mm. Even then, you have to give up focus lock via the front buttons to use it. An interesting concept, but not fully thought out, in my opinion. And speaking of focus lock, don't dismiss this feature. If you're using continuous autofocus, there are times when you might not want the focus to follow a subject but stay where it is consider one bird of many taking off, for example. One thing I've learned to do with the big lenses is micro manage them.
I've usually got AF-ON set instead of the shutter release for focus on my camera body thus I can turn focus on and off at will. But when I don't, I use the focus lock button when I want focus to stay in one spot.
I also use the focus override capability of the lens a lot—the viewfinders on the pro cameras are just barely good enough to know when you need to do this, so make sure you've got your diopter setting dialed in right.
With these tweaks, I use the automated focus system to do the crude work and I constantly finesse it to get a finer degree of control. Unfortunately, this isn't something you pick up in a day. You really have to practice these things because they all interact to some degree. But my hit rate is higher than if I just relied on the autofocus system by itself in a constant mode. The ring action for both zoom and focus is pretty good, though not superb.
After six years of use of my original mm, mine developed some slop to it I'm not sure Nikon can get out through servicing. The focus ring, by the way, goes almost degrees to get from minimum focus distance to maximum.
This couples with what I wrote in the previous paragraph: if you fine tune the focus manually, you have a very large degree of adjustment available to you. Even on subjects a fair distance away from you your focus tweaking can be measured in millimeters if you've got a steady hand. That I like very much. Indeed, I'd be complaining about it if it weren't so. Zooming action goes from to mm in less than a quarter turn.
That's probably the right decision, too. You'll find that you want to zoom fast with moving subjects, and you don't need to move the ring much to do so. I almost always find the focus ring by feel by the slight outdent from the zoom ring. I should also note that I've often used this lens with gloves on. Sometimes multiple layers of gloves. Unless you have to set the switches, all handling is glove friendly. Overall, handling is slightly awkward for handholding due to the large size and weight of the lens, but on a tripod I find it perfectly fine other than the issues I mentioned.
My opinion on this lens has changed back and forth several times, and I'll need to explain that in order for you to understand. It was everything that I expected and needed, and had I actually finished my review in that first year, it would have been an absolute rave. But then I got a D2x. In the course of several sessions using the mm with that camera I found the results wanting more on that in a bit.
At some point I enlisted my assistant in the study of this lens and the Nikon autofocus system, especially since he was complaining about some results of a shoot in Denali with his mm and seemed to be having a similar problem to what I was seeing on the mm.
At the time, we were both using D2x bodies, so we suspected the camera. By the time rolled around and the D3 and D came out with autofocus fine tuning, I thought that I might find the answer to my issues there.
Well, maybe. I certainly was getting better results most of the time, but I still didn't have a complete handle on what was going on. Closest focusing distance: 2 m in AF mode; 1. Four ED Extra low Dispersion glass elements ensure crisp results. Detachable hood and soft case included. Tech Specs. Included Accessories. Lens Case CL-L2. Lens Cap LF Strap LN Register this product Get support.
This listing has ended. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees.
For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Visit store. Start of add to list layer. Sign in for more lists.
Nov 19, PST.
0コメント